THE PERFECT NEIGHBORHOOD BAKERY

Just back from my weekly trip to Berolina Bakery in North Glendale/Montrose. What a wonderful place this is! I wish I could go there on a daily basis, but unfortunately Berolina is not around my corner. Wouldn't it be great if every single neighborhood had such a delicious bakery? I love that Berolina is low-key and high-quality at the same time. It's like they would say, hey, no big deal, you deserve the best bread and the best pasties every single day. That's what I am talking about, I firmly believe that a great neighborhood bakery is a basic human right! 

Berolina Bakery
3421 Ocean View Blvd
Glendale, CA 91208

MOULES MARINIERES, FAST GLAM FOOD

I love simple, good food that can be prepared in no time when I have lazy day or guests over and rather would like to spend time with them than at my stove. Moules Marinères are perfect for such purposes, it's  easy, light, delicious and - very glamorous!

The Recipe

5 pounds clean mussels

1 onion, chopped

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, diced

1/4 cup olive oil

3/4 cup dry (important!) white wine

1 bay leaf

1 handfull of flat parsley stalks, leaves reserved and chopped to garnish

Sauté onion, shallot and garlic in olive oil until transparent. Add  bay leaf, parsley stalks and wine (dry, don't forget) cook one minute. Add the mussels, cover and cook over medium heat (shake occasionally) until shells are open (about 5 minutes). Do not overcook. Remove unopened mussels.

Ladle into  bowls, sprinkle on the parsley leaves, and serve with pepper and the best, crispiest baguette you can find (drive all across town, if needed).

Serves 4

FOURTEEN BY MICHAEL MINA

My dining experience at XIV Michael Mina on Sunset yesterday felt somewhat emblematic of the state of fine dining  in L.A. - some good stuff paired with some not so good stuff, but never really amazing. Once more, I left a high end restaurant with mixed feelings and a hint of disappointment in my heart. We had a business friend visiting from Europe and chose XIV because of it's Sunset Strip meets Philippe Starck glam and the trusted name of Michael Mina. Well, the interior design was way over the top for my taste, and it felt somewhat carelessly executed. I liked the airy feeling, though, the tables weren't cramped into the room - this had a relaxing effect on me. We chose the 11 course, the "Something More" tasting menu. The bite sized courses arrived grouped on rectangular white porcelain plates on an elegant silver platter. Unfortunately we got the dishes too fast one after another. It made me feel like a goose that has to be stuffed in order to produce foie gras quickly. Even though we paused and had several of the dishes on the table simultaneously, the waiters didn't get the hint, we had to ask them to please slow down. They were nice, but not really committed and not as knowledgeable as you would expect from a place like this (when I asked questions, they didn't know the answer). What I really did NOT appreciate is that when we left - after having spent way over 500 dollars - we didn't get a thank you or goodbye. This is just bad manners.

The food did not impress me. There was nothing that really stood out, nothing memorable - there were good things, sure, but not good enough if you want to be that kind of a restaurant. The highlight of the evening were clearly the desserts, the really were very good. The pastry chef definitely knows his stuff.

I guess, SBE buying names (Philippe Starck, Michael Mina) attracts that kind of crowd that loves to see and to be seen and cares more about body shape than good food.

Here's what we had:

Naan Bread with Crème Fraîche

Naan, what Naan? This one simply had no character. The crème fraîche was topped with dried "Fines Herbes", a mix of different herbs, that were overpowering.

Hamachi Tataki, Fermented Black Beans, Pickled Daikon Radish, Fried Shallots

Tender and buttery fish, beans and radish tasted like a big mish mash, the fried shallots added a nice crunch.

Beef Carpaccio, Heart of Romaine, Cherry Tomatoes, Horseradish, Black Pepper

Would have been a beautiful, flavorful dish (the beef was outstanding), hadn't they used too much salt back in the kitchen, and I couldn't detect the taste of horseradish at all.

Spring Asparagus Soup, Maine Lobster, Meyer Lemon, Crème Fraîche, Harissa

Lovely, but a little bit on the bland side, unfortunately the waitress poured the soup over the lobster in a very inelegant way - it looked like she wanted to drawn that damn lobster.

Jidori Chicken Tajine, Vadouvan, Baby Carrot, Fennel, Cilantro

Whoooops, that one didn't really didn't do it for me. Give me pureed baby food with a chunk of chicken instead. Did they list cilantro? Where was it?

Beaufort Cheese Agnolotti, Morels, English Peas, Pea Shoots, New Olive Oil

Liked the peas, and morels, but hey, those Agnolotti were boring, dry and hard.

Wild King Salmon, Cavatelli Pasta, Fava Beans, Spring Onion, Pickled Ramps

Charred Salmon displayed burned stripes, which gave it bitter aftertaste, the fish meat was dry and tasted like - nothing? The pasta was hard and dry.

Baked Potato Pierogi, Braised Pork Belly, Gouda Cheese, Chive Blossoms

Nice...the braised pork belly was very tasty, the pierogi unfortunately dry and bland.

Piedmontese Filet Mignon, Asparagus, Bone Marrow Flan, Chanterelles

Great, tasty filet mignon, perfectly seared, bone marrow flan had nothing of the beautiful bone marrow taste, it tasted like - fat...not appealing

Goat Cheese, Black Olive Purée, Cracker

Not sure, if goat cheese and black olives go together, individually nice, the olive puree killed the delicate goat cheese. The cracker was an insult, it tasted like chipboard.

Passion Fruit Panna Cotta, Mandarin, Yuzu, Lemongrass

Wonderful creamy, yet light panna cotta, the mandarin, yuzu and lemongrass were in nice harmony. A hint less sugar and it would be perfection.

Mascarpone Mousse Tiramisú, Chocolate Sorbet, Milk Songe Cake

Oh, pastry chef, you were the only one, who made me happy. I especially liked the light but intensely chocolaty sorbet, and the tiramisú and sponge cake were delicious.

CECCONI, MY LOVE

I am now a member of the exclusive circle "Friends of Cecconi's". I must have either unknowingly applied for a membership or something. Anyway, I have no idea why they think I am worthy of such an honor, but they mailed me a key chain with their sky blue logo entitling me of a "variety of benefits", including invitations to special events. Whoo hoo! Well, what they got right is that I really like going to the WeHo sister of the London institution. But by no means am I a mover or shaker or one of those very important personalities in town. Thank you, amici at Cecconi's, to make me feel like one for a change! The letter along with the key chain was signed by Marino Monferrato (general manager) and Andrea Cavaliere (executive chef). Sounds like they are real Italians (they are, I checked), and that's great, since they don't have to pretend. And they don't. The menu is clearly Californian, but with an Italian twist, or better, approach, meaning that their focus is on fresh, high-quality market ingredients and a simple preparation. The food is good, plain good. Nothing more, nothing less. Same with the pricing, not cheap, not expensive. There is a casual self-confidence about the whole thing that is truly wonderful. Besides, it is a great place to hang out. After all, the interior design was created by the super talented London-based Martin Brudnizki. That guy just knows how to put things together with an astonishing ease. He always makes me wonder if the first he did after being born, was to redecorate hisnursery.  Cecconi's is sophisticated without any stiffness, stylish and warm. It feels like the better version of home. And even those over the top Hollywood/Beverly Hills types blend in without being an annoying distraction. Last time I had the grilled octopus with lemon, capers and olives. It was light, refreshing and delicious, maybe the octopus could have been a little more tender. As an entrée I went for the Barolo braised short-rib with the truffle mashed potato. Comfort food at its best. I wasn't too crazy about the profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. They tasted a little like cardboard, just like those mass produced you find in the freezer at Smart & Final's. And the vanilla ice cream was on the bland side. But hey, nobody is perfect! I still love you, my friends. Woo, I am sooo nice! Isn't it amazing what a little friendship can do?

  

SAINT-TROPEZ IN L.A.

I was waiting at an empty early-evening bar of a restaurant on Third Street for my husband and ordered a Martini. Martinis make me tipsy very quickly, after all those years my body is still not used to American-sized cocktails that provide me with at least five times the alcohol I would get back in the old world. Bored, I chatted up the handsome young bartender. He would tend bars only occasionally, he explained, his day job was that of a window dresser. His eyes gleaming, he told me about this 'St-Tropez'-themed window he had decorated for a fashion boutique. It dawned on my very quickly: my good looking bartender/window dresser had never been in St-Tropez in his life. 'Hey', I said triumphantly, 'I bet you've never been to the French Riviera!' He nodded with a big fat happy smile. My brain, operating under the influence (at this point my Martini glass was almost empty), surprised me with an epiphany: the St-Tropez theme, the non-traveler, it all made sense! In L.A. people are intrigued by the idea of an ideal. Whereas my European soul is tortured by the standards of living up to an ideal, the Angeleno has freed himself from such unnecessary burdens. With an enviable nonchalance he creates something new and different. Does it matter if a St-Tropez theme actually looks like real St-Tropez style? Of course not! How naive of me to think otherwise. It is all about what you think it is, and not what it actually is. Take a lot of fantasy, do a little twisting here, a little twitching there, add some finishing touches - et voilà! I now finally understand why I am often disappointed when eating out at an 'authentic' Italian or French restaurant, simply because they are, in most cases, not Italian or French, but rather the idea of Italian or French. Or has anyone ever had anything like Pizza Ruspante (as in grilled chicken) in Italy?

CLASSIC COCKTAILS AT COLE'S IN HISTORIC DOWNTOWN

In a move to end the week in old-fashioned style, I ended up at Cole's in Downtown L.A., one fabulously classic joint! Forget about the food, but the drinks are quite artisanal with lots of bitters and clean tasting ice. Surrounded by the original vintage decor, I happily sipped on my 'Old Fashion' and felt like a movie star from the Golden Age!

OINK - OINKSTER

What exactly does "slow fast food" mean? 'Sloooow-roasted pork&nbsp sandwich' as quoted on the Oinkster's website (which is the only slow-roasted dish on the menu)? Or is the 'slow' a reference to the Slow Food movement? In this case the description would be misleading, since the Slow Food movement stands for locally grown and organic ingredients, and there are no locally grown organic ingredients used at the Eagle Rock fast food joint. At least, that's what I have been told by the waiter.

When I went there for lunch today, I was surprised to find a couple of severely obese customers eating out - it was scary. Hmm, I thought, if they like it here, the food must be, to say it politely, very satisfying. We had the BBQ Pulled Pork Sandwich with Carolina BBQ sauce, the Veggie Burger and Belgian fries with garlic aioli and chipotle ketchup. The sauces were really very yummy and the Belgian fries crisp and nice, but not the best I ever had. I liked the pork sandwich, the meat was juicy and flavorful and the shredded blue cabbage was a nice crunchy and colorful addition, but the bread was too soggy. The whole thing could be a little more modest – it was way too big of a portion, I would have been happy with only  half the meat. The Veggie Burger was ok, I couldn't tell the difference between a meat patty and this veggie patty, which is actually strange, but the veggies were so minced and mashed that together with  with the Thousand Island sauce it didn't really make a difference. Which can be a good or a bad thing, depending on what you're after. I didn't like the bun at all, it was soaked with fat, too soft and mushy, and made of highly processed flour.

All in all it was ok, but the Oinkster is a fast food place, not matter how much you're told that they are 'slow'.

JAMES BEARD AWARD: TOM COLICCHIO OUTSTANDING CHEF 2010

Well deserved, Tom Colicchio! With the opening of Craft in 2007, the Century City outpost of the New York original, Colicchio definitely has raised the standards of fine dining in this town. 

THANK YOU!

I had friends over for dinner last night. They brought a vintage bowl filled with homegrown lemons and limes. What a lovely idea!

SUSAN FENIGER'S STREET - GREAT CONCEPT, BAD EXECUTION

I was really excited to go to Susan Feniger's Street for dinner with a couple of friends. The concept of world street food in a restaurant setting is intriguing after all, and the smell of exotic spices and unexpected ingredients went straight from the online menu into my nose.

But what a disappointment the real thing was. In a nutshell: the seasoning was totally off, the dishes were either bland or overly salty, the jellies and marmalades, served along with some of them, so loaded with sugar that they virtually killed all the other flavors. For instance, I had the Spinach Varnyky, those small Ukranian dumplings served with sour cream and that horrible sugary acidic lemon marmalade. Please! Also, every single dish was overcooked resulting in food that was either super dry, like the Argentine Ricotta Noquis, that I almost choked on then, or BURNED, yikes!

I know, things can go wrong sometimes, but I really felt that the kitchen staff at STREET has a basic lack of understanding how to treat and prepare food properly, and this is simple street food, for heaven's sake!