FOURTEEN BY MICHAEL MINA

My dining experience at XIV Michael Mina on Sunset yesterday felt somewhat emblematic of the state of fine dining  in L.A. - some good stuff paired with some not so good stuff, but never really amazing. Once more, I left a high end restaurant with mixed feelings and a hint of disappointment in my heart. We had a business friend visiting from Europe and chose XIV because of it's Sunset Strip meets Philippe Starck glam and the trusted name of Michael Mina. Well, the interior design was way over the top for my taste, and it felt somewhat carelessly executed. I liked the airy feeling, though, the tables weren't cramped into the room - this had a relaxing effect on me. We chose the 11 course, the "Something More" tasting menu. The bite sized courses arrived grouped on rectangular white porcelain plates on an elegant silver platter. Unfortunately we got the dishes too fast one after another. It made me feel like a goose that has to be stuffed in order to produce foie gras quickly. Even though we paused and had several of the dishes on the table simultaneously, the waiters didn't get the hint, we had to ask them to please slow down. They were nice, but not really committed and not as knowledgeable as you would expect from a place like this (when I asked questions, they didn't know the answer). What I really did NOT appreciate is that when we left - after having spent way over 500 dollars - we didn't get a thank you or goodbye. This is just bad manners.

The food did not impress me. There was nothing that really stood out, nothing memorable - there were good things, sure, but not good enough if you want to be that kind of a restaurant. The highlight of the evening were clearly the desserts, the really were very good. The pastry chef definitely knows his stuff.

I guess, SBE buying names (Philippe Starck, Michael Mina) attracts that kind of crowd that loves to see and to be seen and cares more about body shape than good food.

Here's what we had:

Naan Bread with Crème Fraîche

Naan, what Naan? This one simply had no character. The crème fraîche was topped with dried "Fines Herbes", a mix of different herbs, that were overpowering.

Hamachi Tataki, Fermented Black Beans, Pickled Daikon Radish, Fried Shallots

Tender and buttery fish, beans and radish tasted like a big mish mash, the fried shallots added a nice crunch.

Beef Carpaccio, Heart of Romaine, Cherry Tomatoes, Horseradish, Black Pepper

Would have been a beautiful, flavorful dish (the beef was outstanding), hadn't they used too much salt back in the kitchen, and I couldn't detect the taste of horseradish at all.

Spring Asparagus Soup, Maine Lobster, Meyer Lemon, Crème Fraîche, Harissa

Lovely, but a little bit on the bland side, unfortunately the waitress poured the soup over the lobster in a very inelegant way - it looked like she wanted to drawn that damn lobster.

Jidori Chicken Tajine, Vadouvan, Baby Carrot, Fennel, Cilantro

Whoooops, that one didn't really didn't do it for me. Give me pureed baby food with a chunk of chicken instead. Did they list cilantro? Where was it?

Beaufort Cheese Agnolotti, Morels, English Peas, Pea Shoots, New Olive Oil

Liked the peas, and morels, but hey, those Agnolotti were boring, dry and hard.

Wild King Salmon, Cavatelli Pasta, Fava Beans, Spring Onion, Pickled Ramps

Charred Salmon displayed burned stripes, which gave it bitter aftertaste, the fish meat was dry and tasted like - nothing? The pasta was hard and dry.

Baked Potato Pierogi, Braised Pork Belly, Gouda Cheese, Chive Blossoms

Nice...the braised pork belly was very tasty, the pierogi unfortunately dry and bland.

Piedmontese Filet Mignon, Asparagus, Bone Marrow Flan, Chanterelles

Great, tasty filet mignon, perfectly seared, bone marrow flan had nothing of the beautiful bone marrow taste, it tasted like - fat...not appealing

Goat Cheese, Black Olive Purée, Cracker

Not sure, if goat cheese and black olives go together, individually nice, the olive puree killed the delicate goat cheese. The cracker was an insult, it tasted like chipboard.

Passion Fruit Panna Cotta, Mandarin, Yuzu, Lemongrass

Wonderful creamy, yet light panna cotta, the mandarin, yuzu and lemongrass were in nice harmony. A hint less sugar and it would be perfection.

Mascarpone Mousse Tiramisú, Chocolate Sorbet, Milk Songe Cake

Oh, pastry chef, you were the only one, who made me happy. I especially liked the light but intensely chocolaty sorbet, and the tiramisú and sponge cake were delicious.