STEVE'S FABULOUS DUCK BREASTS

Once again, I had the privilege of having been served a wonderful home-cooked meal prepared by our friend Steve in the cozy Silverlake cottage-style house he shares with his wife Danielle. Steve impressed me with the most amazing duck breast I had in a long time. Marinated in a herb-infused blood orange 'bath' and cooked to perfection, it was a very happy experience for my palate. And how refreshing to find, for once, something different than beef or chicken on my plate!


That's how he prepared the duck breasts (for 4 people):

Trim 4 breasts and place, skin side up, in a dish. Squeeze 
the juice of three or four blood oranges over them so the the meat underneath is immersed. Then zest the oranges over the  breasts, and sprinkle with a few fresh thyme leaves, and some chopped fresh rosemary. Let sit in the fridge for a few hours.

Spark up your grill. Drain the marinade. Season both sides with good-quality sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper (especially the skin). When the coals are red but not too hot, place the breasts, with the skin side down on the grill. Let the skin brown and crisp up, but try not to get them too close to the heat -- you don't want them to blacken. Don't be afraid to move the breasts around, since there's a lot of fat in the skin that will cause the flames to leap up.

Cook about 6-7 minutes on both sides. Remove and let rest for at least five minutes.

Steve served the duck breasts with vegetables braised in olive oil. 


Thanks for sharing, Steve!

FARMERS MARKET CHEATING

Last week a manager for Southern California's largest farmers market operator claimed at a state hearing held by the California Department of Food and Agriculture that Mexican produce was sold as local. A vendor, he said, buys wholesale and misrepresents it as his own. So all the chatter about wholesale products at farmer's market is now official. Just from my experience buying at different farmers markets, this does not really surprise me. Often the 'local' produce is not as fresh as is should be and doesn't taste accordingly. A couple of weeks ago, I became a shareholder of the Silverlake Farms/CSA program, allowing me to pick up seasonal produce sustainably and locally grown in Los Angeles. This is the best produce I have ever had in L.A. It reminded me of how easy it is to forget the taste of farm fresh and healthy vegetables and fruits. But now that I have my 'fresh taste' back, I am not willing to compromise any more. 

BOUCHON - A PLEASANT TRIP TO BEVERLY HILLS

A recent lunch at Thomas Keller's BOUCHON BISTRO in Beverly Hills turned out to be a very pleasant experience. Even though I don't care much for the overly sleek buildings like the one Bouchon set up its operation , the interior of the bistro was elegant in a nice way, lacking every tackiness, which had a lot to do with it not trying to be French, but rather be inspired by it and admitting to be Beverly Hills. Also, my friend and I felt in good hands with the outstandingly knowledgeable staff. Those guys really know their stuff. Since I wasn't extremely hungry, I settled for a salad and a soup. What can I say? It was perfect. The Watercress & Endive Salad with Roquefort, toasted Walnuts and Roquefort Dressing, was extremely fresh and crunchy, the dressing enrobed the greens in just the right amount and the walnuts complemented the salad in with sprinkles of earthy, intense flavors. The highlight, though, was the velvety pumpkin soup. I have rarely eaten a soup so well rounded - sweet and savory, very smooth and a little meaty, substantial and almost volatile at the same time. The seasoning was absolutely perfect - not a grain of salt of pepper too much or too little. I will definitely go back, not only because of the food, but because it's the perfect place for feeling special.

PAPPARDELLE!

After my better half has been complaining about the fact that I never use our pasta machine (a Marcato Atlas), I carried with me from Europe, I took the chrome plated, antique looking pasta maker out of one of my kitchen cabinets, and gave it a try. After all, nothing beats fresh, hand made pasta! I fiddled around with different flours (bread, all-purpose, Italian 00, semolina) to create the best dough possible, and came up with the following recipe:

3 cups of unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup of semolina flour

5 large eggs

1 generous teaspoon salt

I mixed the two flours and the salt together, poured it on a working surface, and made a large hole with a spoon right in the middle. I broke the eggs into a a bowl, whisked them together with a fork, and then poured the eggs into the hole. Then I slowly added flour from the edges onto the egg mix  and carefully started kneading, then continued to knead more forcefully, until the dough was smooth and elastic, which should take about 10 minutes. Of course, you can use a food processor, but I love the sensuality of working with my hands.

I formed a ball, wrapped it into plastic and let it rest for at least 30 minutes. Then I cut the ball of dough in 1/4, covered and reserved the pieces I wasn't immediately using to prevent them from drying out. I dusted the counter and dough with a little flour, pressed the dough into a rectangle and rolled it through the pasta machine, starting at the widest setting, that would be No. 1 on the Marcato Atlas, reduced the setting to No 2 and cranked the dough through again. I repeated the procedure up to paper thin No. 8 (you can go up to No 9 if you like your dough super, super thin). I dusted the sheets of dough with flour as needed. Since I love pappardelle, large, broad, almost an inch wide, fettuccine, I first cut the edges of the dough sheets straight and then into pappardelle stripes. That's really easy to do. 

Now, what's really IMPORTANT is that you have a pasta drier rack ready (see picture above) to be able to hang your pappardelle to dry. This is really crucial, because that way you prevent your freshly made pasta from sticking together, and trust me, once they stick together, you won't be able to separate them, and all your hard work would be in vain.

Once properly dried I toss them into salted boiling water for a minute or two, until al dente, and serve them with a simple home made heirloom tomato sauce or with olive oil, shaved truffles (or truffle oil) and Parmiggiano!

C(H)OCKAIGNE

Since 2004? Six years? I cannot believe that artisan chocolatier Valerie Confections has been around that long, and I haven't known about it. I lived in total oblivion, not having a clue about the existence of outstanding chocolate creations only fifteen minutes away from my house. Valerie Confections is by far the best chocolatier I have come across in Los Angeles. 


When I visited their store/shop last week, they were extremely gracious, letting me sample generously. I was convinced of the outstanding quality of the chocolates at first bite. Rounded flavors, beautiful aromas, sooth texture and lovely compositions like rose petal passionfruit truffle or peanut toffee with sea salt. At Valerie's they also understands that a rich, intense product like chocolate confections, only is a pleasure when made small.


At Valerie's it's all about high-end chocolate and its layered aromas, and I went crazy for their toffee creations. I am now extremely curious about their cakes. But since you have to pre-order them 24 hours ahead, I left the shop with unfinished business, and I will have to plan the whole cake-tasting thing accordingly.


I'll keep you posted, promised!

Valerie Confections

3360 W First St

Los Angeles, CA 90004

MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE!

This week I had dinner at Bastide. Lovely atmosphere, great service, good but not outstanding food. Not good enough for the prices they are asking. But there was something else that started irritating me while studying the menu. I felt that something essential was missing there: information about where the products they use in the kitchen come from. Are the eggs from a happy small flock of chickens raised on a sustainable family farm? Are the vegetables local and organic? Has the  beef grazed on lush green pastures all year long? What's the name of the farm? Where is it located? Why do restaurants in Los Angeles not tell their customers about the provenance of the food on their plates? Knowing about all the horrors of industrial agriculture, I strongly feel that I have the right to know where the food I am going to put in my body comes from. Certainly at a place that surrounds itself with a sophisticated air.

PRESERVED APPETIZERS

It seems that nowadays everybody is crazy about preserving food. So you probably know how to make jams, pickles and sauces. I am not going to bore you with another of those typical preserves. While in Europe, I came across a recipe for preserved zucchini rolls with a soft goat cheese filling. I love the idea of having something instantly ready for your guests coming over for a glass of wine or as an appetizer before you serve dinner.

2 small zucchini

salt, pepper

1 cup olive oil

half a bunch fresh thyme

3/4 pounds soft goat cheese

half a teaspoon coarse pepper

1 teaspoon mild paprika

2 tablespoons sesame seeds  

Slice zucchini lengthwise with a mandolin - make them as thin as you can. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté them in a olive oiled pan at medium heat until tender. Add thyme leaves and let cool.

Put soft goat cheese in a bowl. Mix in coarse pepper, paprika and sesame seeds. Place cooled zucchini slices on a clean work surface, spread goat cheese mixture on top, and roll. Rinse a glass jar with very hot water, dry it, and snuggle the zucchini rolls into the jar. Fill with olive oil until covered. Seal with the lid.

Bon appétit!

DUMPLING QUEEN

Call me crazy. I drove all the way to Arcadia (yes, deep in the San Gabriel Valley) at lunchtime, just to satisfy a little craving. After a trip to Europe with great, but exclusively local food, I could not stop thinking of those juicy, delicious dumplings at Din Tai Fung - the obsessive desire probably triggered by another of those yucky airline meals. I had to go. Truth is, I have never been big on Chinese food, but I find those cute dumplings at the Arcadian outpost of the Taiwanese legend simply irresistible. Plus, it has great entertainment value. It is so much fun watching through the huge plate glass the crew of adept dumpling-makers briskly composing golf-ballsized in a meticulously spotless kitchen. The dumplinistas swiftly roll out small circles of dough with a wooden dowel until almost transparent, spooning minced pork, shrimp and vegetables on top along with a spoonful of a heavenly fragrant consommé. Then they start pitching and twisting (just watching makes your head spin) those little guys into shape, placing them in round steel steamers - ten to a serving. Who needs to see a movie? The hostess usually has to drag me away from the huge window pane to seat me (shrieking “you now sit”); only succeeding because I already can smell the steamy juices of my dumplings floating in the air. I usually order nothing else along - no soups, no vegetables, no drinks, except for a little hot green tea. Those dumplings need my undivided attention. I carefully put each one of them on the spoon, add a little ponzu sauce together with the julienned ginger, inhale deeply and then bite through softly. In an almost religious experience, the aromas and juices start dancing in my mouth. Geez, am I happy to back in L.A. Its that magic place where midst of a broad nothingness you can discover truly the greatest treasures on this planet.

CHOCOLATE NIRVANA

My husband went on a business trip to Paris last week and took the time to go to my favorite chocolatier, Pierre Hermé, on rue Bonaparte. He got me a box of tiny chocolate creations, which I slowly devoured lost in reverie. It's been way, WAY, too long since my palate felt that kind of extatic pleasure from chocolate. Brilliance, roundness, intense flavors, the crunch of the brittle coating that gives way as you bite into it...then the chocolate melts in your mouth, it's tender texture triggering a cascade of aromas, a lingering aftertaste that sings in your body as if it were a precious musical instrument! It became instantly clear that I have become too indulgent with what L.A. has to offer in European food traditions, especially chocolates, joining the singsong that after all, there is some decent stuff out there. Truth is, I have not been worthy of my name foodbitch.

RIVERA DOWNTOWN - LATIN ELEGANCE

I have to admit that I never found Latin American cuisine, above all Mexican, especially enticing. Mainly because I feel that the dishes consist of too many overcooked ingredients and form some kind of mish-mash. But also because for me the seasoning often doesn't feel right, almost bland. Now, you will tell me about those nice and spicy chillies. Yes, they add spice, but a dish also needs to be balanced. So, where is the salt? I have never figured out why Mexican cuisine uses so little salt. With all this in mind, I drove to Rivera Restaurant - a modern Latin Restaurant - in Downtown L.A. And I must say, that I was pleasantly surprised. Chef John Rivera Sedlar has captured the essence of L.A. - Latin Culture meets Modernism. He understands that the city is at its best, when it stays true to itself, not pretending to be something it isn't, copying other cities and other cultures. The dining experience was lovely, because you could taste love and passion in the dishes. How poetic the flowers pressed into the tortillas, how thoughtful the words stenciled with spices, and how fun the small portions that give you room to taste many different dishes! Their execution, though, wasn't flawless. Interestingly, one of my soups and one sauce were overly salty. Just the opposite of my other Latin experiences. And the chocolate torte, I had for dessert felt mostly buttery, meaning fat, instead of giving away a rich chocolate flavor. While I wouldn't call the cooking 'brilliant', it is inventive and delicious.

THE SUPER SALAD

Last time I was in New York I dined at the very lovely Restaurant Commerce in the West Village moaning with delight. I closed my eyes when my teeth crunched through what I call the perfect salad. It was a blend of the freshest, crispiest salad leaves you can imagine (the delicacies must have been handpicked only minutes before serving), and equally fresh, heavenly aromatic herbs, lightly, I repeat LIGHTLY, coated with a very simple vinaigrette. Ah! Unfortunately, the blissful state didn't last long. All of a sudden, I remembered, that I had to return to L.A., the land of super salads, he very next day. Let me explain. For some reason the only thing that seems to come to mind to salad makers in SoCal is "more is more". No need to tell you, that I do not think highly of that concept when it comes to food. But in salads it is truly disastrous. The super salad usually comes in an oversized, deep plate that some eager hands have loaded with a pre-packaged (pre-washed, pre-whatever) salad mix (those salad mixes ALWAYS have a couple of limp, slimy leaves hanging in there). Then they happily grasp a huge bottle of pre-prepared (here we go again!) dressing and pour like there is no tomorrow - with the ultimate goal to drown the very last salad leaf. Usually, the dressing has a fancy name like honey-mustard or dreamy-creamy. Then they generously toss things like maple-syrup-roasted pecans on top along with the ubiquitous dried cranberries. But no, they are not done yet! What about some crumbled feta cheese or sliced mozzarella? AND bacon strips? Maybe some diced citrus fruit? Yeah, why not! Sounds so sophisticated. Gimme a break! I have no idea what bit me yesterday when I met a friend at one of the premium super salad places in town, the Alcove in Los Feliz for lunch and ordered - a SALAD! I must have been out of my mind. The moment the waiter put the plate under my nose I moaned. This time in despair. It could be so easy, guys: take the freshest leaves, add a little vinegar, oil, salt and pepper, all perfectly balanced, and toss and toss.

FOLLOWING THE KOGI HYPE

I finally, FINALLY, made it to a Kogi BBQ truck, following the hype that precedes the Mexican meets Korean fusion food served at trucks rotating all over the L.A. area. Fans call it a revolution. Well, that's a big word. 

Turns out, that I have probably become too old for hypes. Don't get me wrong, I really liked the tacos and the kimchi quesadilla I ordered. The Korean touch made the usually quite heavy Mexican food pleasantly light - the cabbage, onions and pickled vegetables added a splash of tartness, freshness, crunchiness and the special salsas like the sesame-chili salsa rioja give a nice kick. And something I really liked: it wasn't too greasy. Just don't call it gourmet food.

I would certainly like to eat more of the Kogi dishes, BUT, the fact that I have to go to my local truck according to their set schedule (or make an extra trip to another location) and stand in line for half an hour or more, makes the whole experience a lot less appealing to me. In other words: is it really worth it?

DAIRY QUEEN

Holy moly - I am on a dairy free diet. Me. Above all. Do you have any idea how many years I have been bitching about all those nut cases, who are on some whatever diet? I am a firm believer of the no fuss approach when it comes to eating. My credo: eat everything, just be careful with processed foods, sugar, refined grains and abundant animal fats. That's all. I always felt so proud being that super sensible, down-to-earth person. And, of course, every time I was asked about any food intolerances - god forbid allergies -, I snobbishly replied "I eat everything! (what are you thinking?)" Enters my new health hero, Dr. I-can-cure-you-from-your-migraines. Ha! I didn't believe him, of course, but he did. And I loved him because apart from healing me, he never interfered with my eating habits. Until a couple of weeks ago. "You have a damp/heat condition", he declared. "I want you to stop eating dairy for at least three months." At this point he wasn't even blinking. I was about to laugh his prescription off, when I remembered that this genius got rid of those nasty migraines after all, and I had no choice but to trust him on hundred percent. I fake smiled "no problem!". On my way back home I stopped at the grocery store for some soy milk (the first in my life), since I absolutely need my early morning cappuccino. Can't live without it. It was disgusting, but I bravely drank it hoping the damp/heat condition would vanish quickly and effectively. Then I realized I couldn't eat my breakfast yogurt, I totally had forgotten that this was considered a dairy product. Hmm. Pancakes or the bread with a think layer of honeyed ricotta I like as a breakfast alternative, didn't go either. I settled for berries floating in soy milk. The day went on like that. No quiche, no cheese, no pudding, no creamed vegetables. Whatever came into my mind had some dairy in it. Arrrggh! Well, in the end it wasn't that bad. I now really like soy milk cappuccino, learned about coconut milk and silken tofu, and cheat a little. So I am good. Just too bad my friend from New York is staying at my house for over two months. When I happily proposed my dairy-free delicacies like pasta or homemade tarte, she declined. Her health guru had recommended her a gluten-free diet. Why on earth did I ever betray my principles and give up my wonderful so-not-complicated-and-no-fuss-diet? I am so doomed.

GOOD GIRL!

Sometimes simple pleasures are the most wonderful. This certainly holds true at the Good Girl Dinette in Highland Park. Their American Diner meets Vietnamese Comfort Food concept is not only charming, but very delicious. Every single dish - from fresh spring rolls and chicken curry to vegetarian pho - is made from scratch with fresh organic ingredients sourced at local farmers markets. It's honest food, beautifully executed, healthy and fun.  

BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL CATERING SUCKS

I recently have attended two events at the iconic Beverly Hills Hotel. And it is only after I went there yesterday again, that I feel compelled to write about my culinary experiences, since I simply couldn't fathom the low quality of the food served there. This is mass-produced food made with mass-produced ingredients, and  a disgrace for an establishment like the Beverly Hills Hotel. Meat and Fish tasted like protein synthesized  in some scary lab and cooked to extraordinary dryness, the mashed potatoes on my plate were so superdense and sticky, it was hard to swallow. The salad came with no dressing and was tossed so carelessly on a plate (probably out of a bag where some gas is added to keep 'freshness'), that I felt like a cow grazing on a badly maintained pasture. To be fair, a waiter later poured some dressing with unidentifiable taste on top of the tasteless greens! Unfortunately this only covered the top leaves. When we finally arrived at dessert, I even didn't feel like eating it. The dusty looking interior didn't make things better. This place needs a makeover. Badly.

A LOVELY LUNCH AT TAVERN, BRENTWOOD

The other day I had a meeting in the Pacific Palisades that ended around lunch time, and of course, due to that perfect timing, I couldn't resist stopping at a good restaurant. I ended up at Suzanne Goin's Tavern in Brentwood. I love those little lunch adventures with nobody else but myself. It makes me feel like 007 on a very secret mission. I was thrilled to find a nice spot at the bar. Isn't there anything more casual-chic than lunch at the bar of an elegant place like the Tavern? Wonderfully, I hit it off right away with Juan, the charming bar tender, who knew exactly how much to entertain me and when to give me space. The bread he served me was one of the best I had in the whole entire universe of L.A. - airy, light, mildly aromatic and with a super crunchy crust. Juan told me that Tavern makes its own bread on a daily basis in-house. Fabulous! I chose a Farro Tabouleh Salad with roasted beets and carrots and crumbled feta cheese. The citrus vinaigrette dressing complemented the nutty flavors of the farro nicely, and the root veggies were beautifully roasted. Too bad, they had an icy feeling, as if they just had come out of the fridge. Unfortunately, that's a huge flavor killer. While my stomach was already satisfied, I had to treat myself with one of the delicious sounding desserts. After contemplating various options, I finally decided to go for the Pistaccio Macaron with Rose Ice Cream and Raspberries. Let me say it right away, they messed up the macaron. What did those pastry guys use to make it? A powder mix? Artificial flavor? C'mon, you can do better than that. And the lovely sounding Rose Ice Cream  - a bit on the tame side. The soft rose could use a complementary ingredient to elevate it to something a bit more exciting. But maybe I am just not the rose type.

FAKE ORGANIC

I am pretty sick of hearing the term 'organic', since I feel the term has become somewhat meaningless. The organic hype has put us under a massive attack from supermarkets (yes, count Whole Foods in), selling us their version of organic food. Industrialized organic food, that is. What's the value of grass fed beef, if shipped thousands of miles from South America, leaving substantial carbon footprint? What that of organic milk, if the herbivore cow is still forced to eat corn - organic corn - that makes it sick? And what about the vegetable, shipped across the country, losing taste and nutritional value on its way to the shelf?  And the fruit having been picked by farm workers paid minimum wage? 

MINI ORGASMS

The other week, I was lamenting the - in my opinion - failed concept of XIV Michael Mina. Now, there is proof that the formula 'big name chef X big name interior designer' can be much more than just a marketing catch. Bazaar, like XIV, a child of the SBE Restaurant Group, and also designed by the omnipresent Philippe Starck - is fabulous! I felt like living the magic of a fun and stylish wonderland.

And the food was right up my alley. I've always loved the concept of tapas, eating tons of small dishes, trying this and then this and this, and oh, maybe that. Chef José Andrés creates small dishes with modern tools of liquid nitrogen and organic emulsifiers, but never gets lost in gimmickry. He wisely keeps his focus on great products, the foundation of every great dish. The results are equally playful and delicious, 'like mini orgasms' as my friend visiting from New York moaned between two tapas dishes. I especially loved the cotton candy foie gras in the shape of a lollipop, the ethereal, airy Philly cheesesteak and the sensual modern/traditional olives.

SUGARGUN

I absolutely love the idea behind this lollypop in the shape of a revolver designed by the super talented Dutch food designer Marije Vogelzang (not available in the US - sorry!). It perfectly visualizes what sugar can do to your body. 

THE PERFECT NEIGHBORHOOD BAKERY

Just back from my weekly trip to Berolina Bakery in North Glendale/Montrose. What a wonderful place this is! I wish I could go there on a daily basis, but unfortunately Berolina is not around my corner. Wouldn't it be great if every single neighborhood had such a delicious bakery? I love that Berolina is low-key and high-quality at the same time. It's like they would say, hey, no big deal, you deserve the best bread and the best pasties every single day. That's what I am talking about, I firmly believe that a great neighborhood bakery is a basic human right! 

Berolina Bakery
3421 Ocean View Blvd
Glendale, CA 91208