Food that makes me happy

When my friend Richard, a food scout for one of the best delicatessen stores in Europe, toured California in search for the best products the Golden State has to offer, he came back to my house his car loaded with delicacies. While all the treasuries were blissfully good, I especially fell in love with the preserves made by Happy Girl Kitchen in Pacific Grove near Monterey. Good heavens! How could I ever live without the pickled spicy carrots, classic dills or the apricot summer jam, which I swear, is the best I had in my life. And I don't say this lightly. Of course, I was miserable when I looked at all those empty jars after splurging on their content. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the Happy Girl Kitchen Products in Los Angeles. Until now. The Marketplace at 'Sweet Butter Kitchen' in Sherman Oaks has stocked up their shelves with tomato preserves, and Leslie, the owner, promised to order the pickles and jams in the new year, too. Thank you, Leslie!

Ottolenghi - simply delicious

One of my favorite cookbook discoveries in 2010 was Ottolenghi The Cookbook. Ottolenghi is the iconic London-based restaurant run by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi. Their simple yet inventive dishes are inspired by their respective childhoods in West and East Jerusalem, and they draw from culinary traditions ranging from Persia to California.

Today I prepared their aubergine*-wrapped ricotta gnocchi with sage butter. A great dish for a California winter evening:

1 small to medium aubergine

4 tbsp olive oil

20 g unsalted butter, melted

15 g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

Ricotta Gnocchi

30 pine nuts

250 g ricotta cheese

2 free-range egg yolks

35 g plain flour

40 g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 tbsp chopped basil

1/4 tsp grated nutmeg

1/2 tsp salt

a good grinding of black pepper

Sage Butter

90 g unsalted butter

20 sage leaves

a pinch of salt

1/2 tbsp lemon juice (optional)

1. Place the pine nuts in a small frying pan and dry-roast over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring them occasionally so they color evenly. Transfer to a large bowl and add the ricotta, egg yolks, flour, grated Parmesan, herbs, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Stir well, then cover and refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.

2. Preheat oven to 180 C. Trim the top and bottom off the aubergine and cut it lenghtways into 5 mm-tick slices; you will need 8-12 slices, depending on how many gnocchi you make. Lay the slices on a baking tray lined with baking parchment and brush liberally with the olive oil. Place in the oven and roast for 10-15 minutes, until tender and golden.

3. To shape the gnocchi, wet your hands and scoop out 40-50 g portions (about 3 tablespoons). Roll into 8 or 12 elongated barrel shapes. Meanwhile bring plenty of salted water to the boil in a large saucepan.

4. Carefully add a few dumplings to the simmering – don't cook them all at once or thy will stick to each other. After about 2 minutes, they should rise to the surface. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a tea towel to drain. Pat dry with kitchen paper and brush them with the melted butter.

5. Once the gnocchi have cooled down, take a strip of the aubergine and wrap it around the center of each one, like a belt. Trim the aubergine so that the seam is at the bottom. Place the gnocchi in a greased ovenproof dish and set aside. You can cover them with cling film and keep them in the fridge a day at this stage.

6. When ready to serve sprinkle the gnocchi with the Parmesan and bake in the oven at 180 C for 8-10 minutes, until they are heated through.

7. Meanwhile, quickly make the sage butter sauce, as it needs to coincide with the gnocchi. Place a small saucepan over a moderate heat. Add the butter and allow it to simmer for a few minutes until it turns a light golden-brown color and has a nutty smell. Remove from the heat and carefully add the sage, salt and lemon juice, if using. Return to the heat for a few seconds to cook the sage lightly.

8. Divide the gnocchi between serving plates, pour the hot butter on top with a few sage leaves and serve immediately. 

Serves 4 as a starter, 2 as a main course.

* aubergine = eggplant

convert heat, weight etc.

ONLINE CONVERSION

ARTISANAL CHEESE HEAVEN

Lured by the concept of custom building your burger, I had lunch at The Counter in Pasadena last week. It was a horrible food experience, and I will never ever set my foot back in this place. But there was one wonderful thing about my visit at The Counter: while miserably munching on my burger, I discovered the Pasadena Cheese Store across the alley. Of course, I had to go over and check it out. O.M.G.! This recently opened cheese store on Shoppers Lane is cheese heaven. Move over Silverlake Cheese Store and Beverly Hills Cheese Store. It is now in Pasadena where they offer the absolutely best artisanal cheeses from the greatest cheese producing countries on the planet like France, Switzerland, Italy, England, Spain and also some great ones made here in the U.S. I was especially enchanted to discover Caroline Hostettler's selection from Switzerland. I have known Caroline for a very long time, and I can tell you that she has uncompromisingly high standards. Her cheeses are simply the best Swiss artisanal cheeses you can get. I spent a small, well spent fortune on Appenzeller Sélection Rolf Beeler, Fourme d'Ambert, Montbriac, Crottin de Chaignol and Tomme Crayeuse – all so good, it made me cry.

SUNDAY SUPPER

Sunday Supper at Lucques:

fennel and endive salad with green olives, parsley and meyer lemon cream – absolutely lovely, fresh as it can be (the endives were super crunchy), a wonderful fruity, slightly tangy dressing, amazing green olives

grilled market fish with cauliflower rice and hot saffron-ginger-tomato sauce – perfectly grilled pink snapper, crisp on the outside, very moist in the inside (congratulations), rice and cauliflower is a surprisingly good combination, and the saffron-ginger-tomato sauce was a exciting dance of flavors in the palate.

olive oil cake with candied tangerines, crème fraîche and pistachios – I liked the candies tangerines and the lovely crème fraîche, but wasn't too crazy about the olive oil cake. not because it wasn't well made, but personally I don't like cake for dessert. it would have been a perfect match for an afternoon tea.

clearly at Lucques they deeply care about food and their love for outstanding products is enchanting. too bad the staff was utterly disimpassioned. nothing really to complain about. it just wasn't fun to be around our waitress pulling a face all evening.

ARTISAN TOFU

I followed the advice of my fabulous health practitioner and drove all the way to Gardena to get some of what he claims to be the best tofu in California, if not the whole country, Meiji Tofu. Meji makes its tofu - regular, soft and zaru (in a pretty bamboo basket) - fresh every morning from non GMO soy beans and uses no preservatives. It's not only super fresh, but has supreme, outlandishly wonderful taste and extremely silky texture that almost melts in your mouth. It's absolutely fantastic plain with maybe a little sauce to your liking, but I am also excited to experiment with it. I never want to go back to regular supermarket tofu again, which sucks since I now will have to drive to Gardena on a regular basis.

THE REDISCOVERY OF THE DATE

I recently read about the date growing 'Flying Disc Ranch' in the Coachella desert valley and how wonderful their dates are. I always was kind of indifferent to dates, since I only knew them as very sticky, non-varietal sugar-bombs. Curious about what 'Flying Disc Ranch' has to offer, I placed an order for Barhi, Yellow Barhi, Medjhool and Khadrawi and Zahidi dates. I had no idea that there was such a range of different varieties and flavors. Boy, what a revelation! The Khadrawi surprised my palate with a velvety caramel flavor, the Yellow Barhi has a light, refreshing citrus flavor and the Medjhool displayed an array of sweet flowery aromas. My days as a date ignorant are finally over!

FARMERS MARKET CHEATING

Last week a manager for Southern California's largest farmers market operator claimed at a state hearing held by the California Department of Food and Agriculture that Mexican produce was sold as local. A vendor, he said, buys wholesale and misrepresents it as his own. So all the chatter about wholesale products at farmer's market is now official. Just from my experience buying at different farmers markets, this does not really surprise me. Often the 'local' produce is not as fresh as is should be and doesn't taste accordingly. A couple of weeks ago, I became a shareholder of the Silverlake Farms/CSA program, allowing me to pick up seasonal produce sustainably and locally grown in Los Angeles. This is the best produce I have ever had in L.A. It reminded me of how easy it is to forget the taste of farm fresh and healthy vegetables and fruits. But now that I have my 'fresh taste' back, I am not willing to compromise any more. 

CAN YOU BELIEVE IT'S ALL SUGAR?

  

The French company BELLE DE SUCRE creates the most amazing objects made of sugar. I am intrigued! Check out their website (click the link above) - it's totally worth it.

WELCOME, LINDY & GRUNDY!

Introducing Lindy & Grundy (Amelia Posada and Erika Nakamura), butchers who are opening a shop on Melrose and Fairfax in December selling local, pastured and humanely raised meat. They will be offering beef, lamb, pork and chicken, and the girls also will make their own sausages, bacon and charcuterie. 

Pasadena-born Amelia Posada worked as a floral designer before she apprenticed at Fleisher's Grass-Fed and Organic Meats in Kingston NY, in the Hudson Valley, together with Japanese-born Erika Nakamura, who attended the French Culinary Institute and was a chef at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, both in New York.

That is great news. Sustainable butchers are practically non-existent in L.A. A warm welcome to Lindy & Grundy!

801 Fairfax Ave

Los Angeles, CA, 90046

BOUCHON - A PLEASANT TRIP TO BEVERLY HILLS

A recent lunch at Thomas Keller's BOUCHON BISTRO in Beverly Hills turned out to be a very pleasant experience. Even though I don't care much for the overly sleek buildings like the one Bouchon set up its operation , the interior of the bistro was elegant in a nice way, lacking every tackiness, which had a lot to do with it not trying to be French, but rather be inspired by it and admitting to be Beverly Hills. Also, my friend and I felt in good hands with the outstandingly knowledgeable staff. Those guys really know their stuff. Since I wasn't extremely hungry, I settled for a salad and a soup. What can I say? It was perfect. The Watercress & Endive Salad with Roquefort, toasted Walnuts and Roquefort Dressing, was extremely fresh and crunchy, the dressing enrobed the greens in just the right amount and the walnuts complemented the salad in with sprinkles of earthy, intense flavors. The highlight, though, was the velvety pumpkin soup. I have rarely eaten a soup so well rounded - sweet and savory, very smooth and a little meaty, substantial and almost volatile at the same time. The seasoning was absolutely perfect - not a grain of salt of pepper too much or too little. I will definitely go back, not only because of the food, but because it's the perfect place for feeling special.

COOKING FOR LOVE

I had the privilege of attending the “Savor the Season” 2010 event on Sunday commemorating Domestic Violence Awareness Month, hosted by “Break the Cycle”, a national organization working to end teen dating violence. Their motto ‘Cooking for Love’ is absolutely wonderful. Cooking and sharing a meal is, in my opinion, one of the best ways the show love and to strengthen people, families and communities. A German proverb says “Liebe geht durch den Magen” - the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. How true! The event featured Los Angeles chefs, among them Stefan Richter (Stefan’s at L.A. Farm), Susan Feniger (STREET), Gloria Felix (Reservoir), Paul Rosenbluh (Firefly Bistro) and Todd Barrie (Upstairs2), who served a couple tapas-style dishes at individual stands. I skipped the word “top” before Los Angeles chefs, as the invitation stated. Yes, I am going to be bitchy again. Even though is was fun to roam through the fair-like event, taste a little here and a little there, the dishes served were mostly disappointing. I didn’t feel the passion and love that ‘Cooking for Love’ promised. Rather, I was confronted with blandness, soullessness and little mastery. I am concerned that many Angelenos actually think that chefs like Susan Feniger and Stefan Richter are “top”. Truth is, they would never stand the test if they competed with top chefs in New York, San Francisco or Chicago, and they would utterly fail on an international level. Los Angeles, if you have any intention of becoming a serious food city, you will have to raise the bar and become more demanding. 

APPLE DREAM

 

I just read Kevin West's post on his wonderful home canning blog "Saving the Season" about his road trip to the apple-growing community Oak Glen in the San Bernardino Mountains. His bountiful apple harvest brought back memories of the "Crème aux Pommes" - a dessert made with apples - my mom would make. I loved this light, fruity dessert so much that I would eat the whole bowl that was intended to feed our family of four all by myself. Needless to say that they were not amused...Here's the recipe!

2 pounds aromatic apples

1/2 cup water

3 tablespoons sugar

2 eggs

1/2 vanilla bean

1 teaspoon confectioner’s sugar

1 teaspoon corn starch

zest of one lemon

Peel, core and slice apples approximately 1/4 “ thick. Toss apples in a pan add water and sugar. Cook until tender. Drain water. Purée apples with mixer. Add some drops of lemon juice to prevent browning.

Separate eggs. Put egg whites aside.

Put egg yolks in a bowl. Slice the vanilla bean open and scratch out the seeds (you can use vanilla extract if you prefer), add to egg yolks together with confectioner’s sugar, corn starch, lemon zest and whisk everything together until the egg yolks are frothy. 

Incorporate egg yolk mix to puréed apples.

Beat the egg withes until they form peaks, and carefully add beaten egg whites to the apple mix. Volià!

Now you can serve the “Crème aux Pommes” in cups or glasses and add a dollop of whipped cream.

A BREAD STORY

It always seemed a mystery to me, why American bread often tastes like chemically treated paper mache, leaving me longing for those wonderful breads I grew up with in Europe. Now, I might have found an explanation: As Abby Franke from Stone Ground Breads in Agoura Hills explains in a piece recently published in the LA Times, freshly milled flour is known in the milling industry as green or "unaged" flour (a reference not to the color but to undeveloped gluten in freshly milled flour). And flour must be "aged" for several days or even weeks to strengthen the gluten that comes from the flour so that breads proof properly. "If you use flour you just milled, the bread will be dense, and not the best flavor," he says. "But a lot of commercial flour you buy is aged unnaturally with chemicals that don't taste good either." It's those damn chemicals!

PAPPARDELLE!

After my better half has been complaining about the fact that I never use our pasta machine (a Marcato Atlas), I carried with me from Europe, I took the chrome plated, antique looking pasta maker out of one of my kitchen cabinets, and gave it a try. After all, nothing beats fresh, hand made pasta! I fiddled around with different flours (bread, all-purpose, Italian 00, semolina) to create the best dough possible, and came up with the following recipe:

3 cups of unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup of semolina flour

5 large eggs

1 generous teaspoon salt

I mixed the two flours and the salt together, poured it on a working surface, and made a large hole with a spoon right in the middle. I broke the eggs into a a bowl, whisked them together with a fork, and then poured the eggs into the hole. Then I slowly added flour from the edges onto the egg mix  and carefully started kneading, then continued to knead more forcefully, until the dough was smooth and elastic, which should take about 10 minutes. Of course, you can use a food processor, but I love the sensuality of working with my hands.

I formed a ball, wrapped it into plastic and let it rest for at least 30 minutes. Then I cut the ball of dough in 1/4, covered and reserved the pieces I wasn't immediately using to prevent them from drying out. I dusted the counter and dough with a little flour, pressed the dough into a rectangle and rolled it through the pasta machine, starting at the widest setting, that would be No. 1 on the Marcato Atlas, reduced the setting to No 2 and cranked the dough through again. I repeated the procedure up to paper thin No. 8 (you can go up to No 9 if you like your dough super, super thin). I dusted the sheets of dough with flour as needed. Since I love pappardelle, large, broad, almost an inch wide, fettuccine, I first cut the edges of the dough sheets straight and then into pappardelle stripes. That's really easy to do. 

Now, what's really IMPORTANT is that you have a pasta drier rack ready (see picture above) to be able to hang your pappardelle to dry. This is really crucial, because that way you prevent your freshly made pasta from sticking together, and trust me, once they stick together, you won't be able to separate them, and all your hard work would be in vain.

Once properly dried I toss them into salted boiling water for a minute or two, until al dente, and serve them with a simple home made heirloom tomato sauce or with olive oil, shaved truffles (or truffle oil) and Parmiggiano!

C(H)OCKAIGNE

Since 2004? Six years? I cannot believe that artisan chocolatier Valerie Confections has been around that long, and I haven't known about it. I lived in total oblivion, not having a clue about the existence of outstanding chocolate creations only fifteen minutes away from my house. Valerie Confections is by far the best chocolatier I have come across in Los Angeles. 


When I visited their store/shop last week, they were extremely gracious, letting me sample generously. I was convinced of the outstanding quality of the chocolates at first bite. Rounded flavors, beautiful aromas, sooth texture and lovely compositions like rose petal passionfruit truffle or peanut toffee with sea salt. At Valerie's they also understands that a rich, intense product like chocolate confections, only is a pleasure when made small.


At Valerie's it's all about high-end chocolate and its layered aromas, and I went crazy for their toffee creations. I am now extremely curious about their cakes. But since you have to pre-order them 24 hours ahead, I left the shop with unfinished business, and I will have to plan the whole cake-tasting thing accordingly.


I'll keep you posted, promised!

Valerie Confections

3360 W First St

Los Angeles, CA 90004

MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE!

This week I had dinner at Bastide. Lovely atmosphere, great service, good but not outstanding food. Not good enough for the prices they are asking. But there was something else that started irritating me while studying the menu. I felt that something essential was missing there: information about where the products they use in the kitchen come from. Are the eggs from a happy small flock of chickens raised on a sustainable family farm? Are the vegetables local and organic? Has the  beef grazed on lush green pastures all year long? What's the name of the farm? Where is it located? Why do restaurants in Los Angeles not tell their customers about the provenance of the food on their plates? Knowing about all the horrors of industrial agriculture, I strongly feel that I have the right to know where the food I am going to put in my body comes from. Certainly at a place that surrounds itself with a sophisticated air.

PRESERVED APPETIZERS

It seems that nowadays everybody is crazy about preserving food. So you probably know how to make jams, pickles and sauces. I am not going to bore you with another of those typical preserves. While in Europe, I came across a recipe for preserved zucchini rolls with a soft goat cheese filling. I love the idea of having something instantly ready for your guests coming over for a glass of wine or as an appetizer before you serve dinner.

2 small zucchini

salt, pepper

1 cup olive oil

half a bunch fresh thyme

3/4 pounds soft goat cheese

half a teaspoon coarse pepper

1 teaspoon mild paprika

2 tablespoons sesame seeds  

Slice zucchini lengthwise with a mandolin - make them as thin as you can. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté them in a olive oiled pan at medium heat until tender. Add thyme leaves and let cool.

Put soft goat cheese in a bowl. Mix in coarse pepper, paprika and sesame seeds. Place cooled zucchini slices on a clean work surface, spread goat cheese mixture on top, and roll. Rinse a glass jar with very hot water, dry it, and snuggle the zucchini rolls into the jar. Fill with olive oil until covered. Seal with the lid.

Bon appétit!

DUMPLING QUEEN

Call me crazy. I drove all the way to Arcadia (yes, deep in the San Gabriel Valley) at lunchtime, just to satisfy a little craving. After a trip to Europe with great, but exclusively local food, I could not stop thinking of those juicy, delicious dumplings at Din Tai Fung - the obsessive desire probably triggered by another of those yucky airline meals. I had to go. Truth is, I have never been big on Chinese food, but I find those cute dumplings at the Arcadian outpost of the Taiwanese legend simply irresistible. Plus, it has great entertainment value. It is so much fun watching through the huge plate glass the crew of adept dumpling-makers briskly composing golf-ballsized in a meticulously spotless kitchen. The dumplinistas swiftly roll out small circles of dough with a wooden dowel until almost transparent, spooning minced pork, shrimp and vegetables on top along with a spoonful of a heavenly fragrant consommé. Then they start pitching and twisting (just watching makes your head spin) those little guys into shape, placing them in round steel steamers - ten to a serving. Who needs to see a movie? The hostess usually has to drag me away from the huge window pane to seat me (shrieking “you now sit”); only succeeding because I already can smell the steamy juices of my dumplings floating in the air. I usually order nothing else along - no soups, no vegetables, no drinks, except for a little hot green tea. Those dumplings need my undivided attention. I carefully put each one of them on the spoon, add a little ponzu sauce together with the julienned ginger, inhale deeply and then bite through softly. In an almost religious experience, the aromas and juices start dancing in my mouth. Geez, am I happy to back in L.A. Its that magic place where midst of a broad nothingness you can discover truly the greatest treasures on this planet.

CHOCOLATE NIRVANA

My husband went on a business trip to Paris last week and took the time to go to my favorite chocolatier, Pierre Hermé, on rue Bonaparte. He got me a box of tiny chocolate creations, which I slowly devoured lost in reverie. It's been way, WAY, too long since my palate felt that kind of extatic pleasure from chocolate. Brilliance, roundness, intense flavors, the crunch of the brittle coating that gives way as you bite into it...then the chocolate melts in your mouth, it's tender texture triggering a cascade of aromas, a lingering aftertaste that sings in your body as if it were a precious musical instrument! It became instantly clear that I have become too indulgent with what L.A. has to offer in European food traditions, especially chocolates, joining the singsong that after all, there is some decent stuff out there. Truth is, I have not been worthy of my name foodbitch.

RIVERA DOWNTOWN - LATIN ELEGANCE

I have to admit that I never found Latin American cuisine, above all Mexican, especially enticing. Mainly because I feel that the dishes consist of too many overcooked ingredients and form some kind of mish-mash. But also because for me the seasoning often doesn't feel right, almost bland. Now, you will tell me about those nice and spicy chillies. Yes, they add spice, but a dish also needs to be balanced. So, where is the salt? I have never figured out why Mexican cuisine uses so little salt. With all this in mind, I drove to Rivera Restaurant - a modern Latin Restaurant - in Downtown L.A. And I must say, that I was pleasantly surprised. Chef John Rivera Sedlar has captured the essence of L.A. - Latin Culture meets Modernism. He understands that the city is at its best, when it stays true to itself, not pretending to be something it isn't, copying other cities and other cultures. The dining experience was lovely, because you could taste love and passion in the dishes. How poetic the flowers pressed into the tortillas, how thoughtful the words stenciled with spices, and how fun the small portions that give you room to taste many different dishes! Their execution, though, wasn't flawless. Interestingly, one of my soups and one sauce were overly salty. Just the opposite of my other Latin experiences. And the chocolate torte, I had for dessert felt mostly buttery, meaning fat, instead of giving away a rich chocolate flavor. While I wouldn't call the cooking 'brilliant', it is inventive and delicious.

CHILLED BUTTERMILK CUCUMBER SOUP

This is one of my favorite summer recipes. It's deliciously light and super refreshing:

3 cucumbers

2 cups of buttermilk

12 basil leaves

3 slices of smoked salmon

4 teaspoons pumpkin seed oil

 a dash of lemon juice

a pinch of sugar

salt, freshly ground pepper

Peel the cucumbers, cut lengthwise in half and take the seeds out. Cut them into small cubes. Let the cubes rest for about an hour, drain. Pour Buttermilk into a bowl, season with a pinch of sugar, salt, pepper to your liking  and add a dash of lemon juice. Add the drained cucumber cubes and blend in a mixer. Taste and adjust seasoning. Let it cool in the fridge. Tear some basil leaves into pieces and cut smoked salmon into slices. Pour the chilled cucumber soup into cooled bowls or soup plates, decorate with basil leaves, salmon and drizzle a little of the dark green and nutty pumpkin seek oil on top. Serves 4.

THE SUPER SALAD

Last time I was in New York I dined at the very lovely Restaurant Commerce in the West Village moaning with delight. I closed my eyes when my teeth crunched through what I call the perfect salad. It was a blend of the freshest, crispiest salad leaves you can imagine (the delicacies must have been handpicked only minutes before serving), and equally fresh, heavenly aromatic herbs, lightly, I repeat LIGHTLY, coated with a very simple vinaigrette. Ah! Unfortunately, the blissful state didn't last long. All of a sudden, I remembered, that I had to return to L.A., the land of super salads, he very next day. Let me explain. For some reason the only thing that seems to come to mind to salad makers in SoCal is "more is more". No need to tell you, that I do not think highly of that concept when it comes to food. But in salads it is truly disastrous. The super salad usually comes in an oversized, deep plate that some eager hands have loaded with a pre-packaged (pre-washed, pre-whatever) salad mix (those salad mixes ALWAYS have a couple of limp, slimy leaves hanging in there). Then they happily grasp a huge bottle of pre-prepared (here we go again!) dressing and pour like there is no tomorrow - with the ultimate goal to drown the very last salad leaf. Usually, the dressing has a fancy name like honey-mustard or dreamy-creamy. Then they generously toss things like maple-syrup-roasted pecans on top along with the ubiquitous dried cranberries. But no, they are not done yet! What about some crumbled feta cheese or sliced mozzarella? AND bacon strips? Maybe some diced citrus fruit? Yeah, why not! Sounds so sophisticated. Gimme a break! I have no idea what bit me yesterday when I met a friend at one of the premium super salad places in town, the Alcove in Los Feliz for lunch and ordered - a SALAD! I must have been out of my mind. The moment the waiter put the plate under my nose I moaned. This time in despair. It could be so easy, guys: take the freshest leaves, add a little vinegar, oil, salt and pepper, all perfectly balanced, and toss and toss.

FOLLOWING THE KOGI HYPE

I finally, FINALLY, made it to a Kogi BBQ truck, following the hype that precedes the Mexican meets Korean fusion food served at trucks rotating all over the L.A. area. Fans call it a revolution. Well, that's a big word. 

Turns out, that I have probably become too old for hypes. Don't get me wrong, I really liked the tacos and the kimchi quesadilla I ordered. The Korean touch made the usually quite heavy Mexican food pleasantly light - the cabbage, onions and pickled vegetables added a splash of tartness, freshness, crunchiness and the special salsas like the sesame-chili salsa rioja give a nice kick. And something I really liked: it wasn't too greasy. Just don't call it gourmet food.

I would certainly like to eat more of the Kogi dishes, BUT, the fact that I have to go to my local truck according to their set schedule (or make an extra trip to another location) and stand in line for half an hour or more, makes the whole experience a lot less appealing to me. In other words: is it really worth it?

AN INTERESTING CONVERSATION

After it wasn't clear to me whether the stalls at Gigi's Farmers Market in Glendale I visited last Saturday were really operated by local (meaning within a two hundred mile zone of L.A.) family farmers, I decided to get some facts from the girl sitting at the concierge table.

Me: "Excuse me, I was wondering if the stands here at Gigi's Farmers Market are operated by local family farmers?"

She, looking at me with a puzzled expression: "Well, the bakery just behind you, they bake their own ...."

Me: "I am talking about produce. Fruit, vegetables."

She with a blank stare: "What do you mean exactly?"

Me: "Are the stands at this farmers market operated by local family farmers?"

She: "The products are all California certified."

Me: "Okay..."

She: "All the products sold here are grown in California."

Me: "Okay..."

She: "I mean, they are not grown out of state or abroad."

Me: "But what about the farmers? Are those family farm operated stands? Or does Gigi's buy wholesale and sell it here at stands?"

She: "I do not understand what it is exactly, you want to know?"

Me: "You know, it is important to me to know if the produce sold here comes directly from the farmers..."

She (eagerly): "I can assure you, every single vegetable or fruit has been grown on a farm."

Me: "..."

DAIRY QUEEN

Holy moly - I am on a dairy free diet. Me. Above all. Do you have any idea how many years I have been bitching about all those nut cases, who are on some whatever diet? I am a firm believer of the no fuss approach when it comes to eating. My credo: eat everything, just be careful with processed foods, sugar, refined grains and abundant animal fats. That's all. I always felt so proud being that super sensible, down-to-earth person. And, of course, every time I was asked about any food intolerances - god forbid allergies -, I snobbishly replied "I eat everything! (what are you thinking?)" Enters my new health hero, Dr. I-can-cure-you-from-your-migraines. Ha! I didn't believe him, of course, but he did. And I loved him because apart from healing me, he never interfered with my eating habits. Until a couple of weeks ago. "You have a damp/heat condition", he declared. "I want you to stop eating dairy for at least three months." At this point he wasn't even blinking. I was about to laugh his prescription off, when I remembered that this genius got rid of those nasty migraines after all, and I had no choice but to trust him on hundred percent. I fake smiled "no problem!". On my way back home I stopped at the grocery store for some soy milk (the first in my life), since I absolutely need my early morning cappuccino. Can't live without it. It was disgusting, but I bravely drank it hoping the damp/heat condition would vanish quickly and effectively. Then I realized I couldn't eat my breakfast yogurt, I totally had forgotten that this was considered a dairy product. Hmm. Pancakes or the bread with a think layer of honeyed ricotta I like as a breakfast alternative, didn't go either. I settled for berries floating in soy milk. The day went on like that. No quiche, no cheese, no pudding, no creamed vegetables. Whatever came into my mind had some dairy in it. Arrrggh! Well, in the end it wasn't that bad. I now really like soy milk cappuccino, learned about coconut milk and silken tofu, and cheat a little. So I am good. Just too bad my friend from New York is staying at my house for over two months. When I happily proposed my dairy-free delicacies like pasta or homemade tarte, she declined. Her health guru had recommended her a gluten-free diet. Why on earth did I ever betray my principles and give up my wonderful so-not-complicated-and-no-fuss-diet? I am so doomed.

GOOD GIRL!

Sometimes simple pleasures are the most wonderful. This certainly holds true at the Good Girl Dinette in Highland Park. Their American Diner meets Vietnamese Comfort Food concept is not only charming, but very delicious. Every single dish - from fresh spring rolls and chicken curry to vegetarian pho - is made from scratch with fresh organic ingredients sourced at local farmers markets. It's honest food, beautifully executed, healthy and fun.  

BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL CATERING SUCKS

I recently have attended two events at the iconic Beverly Hills Hotel. And it is only after I went there yesterday again, that I feel compelled to write about my culinary experiences, since I simply couldn't fathom the low quality of the food served there. This is mass-produced food made with mass-produced ingredients, and  a disgrace for an establishment like the Beverly Hills Hotel. Meat and Fish tasted like protein synthesized  in some scary lab and cooked to extraordinary dryness, the mashed potatoes on my plate were so superdense and sticky, it was hard to swallow. The salad came with no dressing and was tossed so carelessly on a plate (probably out of a bag where some gas is added to keep 'freshness'), that I felt like a cow grazing on a badly maintained pasture. To be fair, a waiter later poured some dressing with unidentifiable taste on top of the tasteless greens! Unfortunately this only covered the top leaves. When we finally arrived at dessert, I even didn't feel like eating it. The dusty looking interior didn't make things better. This place needs a makeover. Badly.

A LOVELY LUNCH AT TAVERN, BRENTWOOD

The other day I had a meeting in the Pacific Palisades that ended around lunch time, and of course, due to that perfect timing, I couldn't resist stopping at a good restaurant. I ended up at Suzanne Goin's Tavern in Brentwood. I love those little lunch adventures with nobody else but myself. It makes me feel like 007 on a very secret mission. I was thrilled to find a nice spot at the bar. Isn't there anything more casual-chic than lunch at the bar of an elegant place like the Tavern? Wonderfully, I hit it off right away with Juan, the charming bar tender, who knew exactly how much to entertain me and when to give me space. The bread he served me was one of the best I had in the whole entire universe of L.A. - airy, light, mildly aromatic and with a super crunchy crust. Juan told me that Tavern makes its own bread on a daily basis in-house. Fabulous! I chose a Farro Tabouleh Salad with roasted beets and carrots and crumbled feta cheese. The citrus vinaigrette dressing complemented the nutty flavors of the farro nicely, and the root veggies were beautifully roasted. Too bad, they had an icy feeling, as if they just had come out of the fridge. Unfortunately, that's a huge flavor killer. While my stomach was already satisfied, I had to treat myself with one of the delicious sounding desserts. After contemplating various options, I finally decided to go for the Pistaccio Macaron with Rose Ice Cream and Raspberries. Let me say it right away, they messed up the macaron. What did those pastry guys use to make it? A powder mix? Artificial flavor? C'mon, you can do better than that. And the lovely sounding Rose Ice Cream  - a bit on the tame side. The soft rose could use a complementary ingredient to elevate it to something a bit more exciting. But maybe I am just not the rose type.

FAKE ORGANIC

I am pretty sick of hearing the term 'organic', since I feel the term has become somewhat meaningless. The organic hype has put us under a massive attack from supermarkets (yes, count Whole Foods in), selling us their version of organic food. Industrialized organic food, that is. What's the value of grass fed beef, if shipped thousands of miles from South America, leaving substantial carbon footprint? What that of organic milk, if the herbivore cow is still forced to eat corn - organic corn - that makes it sick? And what about the vegetable, shipped across the country, losing taste and nutritional value on its way to the shelf?  And the fruit having been picked by farm workers paid minimum wage? 

FRAICHE @ CULVER CITY

Yesterday we felt nostalgic visiting our old neighborhood Culver City. Boy, has it changed here. I know, I know, this is no breaking news, but every time I visit, I am pleasantly surprised how lively the scene has become - it almost has the vibe of an Italian piazza. We decided to have dinner at Fraîche, a restaurant, I hadn't crossed from my "restaurants I want to try" list, yet.

We ordered Beef Tartare with Bacon Sabayon, Chives and Argula; Ravioli with a Ricotta/English Pea filling and Francobolli (postage stamp in Italian), small rectangular Raviolis with fresh corn, sage and mushroom nage. It was good. The Beef Tartare was nicely seasoned, the Argula very, very fresh, aromatic and crisp. The Ravioli dough thin (as it should be), the fillings not bad, although the English Pea/Ricotta ones, were a teeny tiny bit on the bland side for my taste. The one thing that was really off, was the presentation. Splash - drop it off on a plate and don't bother  - that's how it looked. My better half ordered espresso, which I very rarely do, since a REALLY good espresso is one the hardest things to find in town. This one didn't proof me wrong, either, as I was told. We also had the Piccola Pasticceria, a selection of housemade confections, basically cookies. They were served warm, which some people might think of as sophisticated. It's not. Warm pastries just taste too much like dough - it is only with the cooling that the lovely aromas are being released.

It's is hard to complain about the food at Fraîche - but it also didn't excite me. My palate doesn't scream MORE, I WANT MORE, that's for sure.